Eating across Paris

Paris is one of those places where you want to be able to say "I had the best meal of my life" but sometimes with all the tourist traps it's hard to really find a truly great meal. It's harder still to find a truly great meal that's not going to break the bank.

Before we left for Paris my good friend and fabulous Parisian, Noras, sat down with me one afternoon and shared her hidden gems of the city with me. I made several google maps that can be easily printed out for your next trek to the land of caloric bliss.

The Eiffel Tower

 

On our first trip to Paris on our honeymoon over four years ago we eyed the long line ups for the Eiffel tower. It was tempting to queue with the masses but instead we satisfied ourselves with strolling around the base like most visitors do.

Joel's parents bought special tickets to have a small group tour on this trip which allowed us to jump the queues and enjoy the tower with almost no waiting at all. We went this morning and were rewarded with a clear beautiful day for the experience. I thought I'd chicken out at the second level but I made it all the way to the top. The views were incredible and above all the feeling of being in this iconic place is hard to describe. So many history lectures came to life in my imagination. I really had no idea I would be this swept away by a monument but there you go. That's the beauty of travel.

Tomorrow is our last full day before we leave for London. It's one we have chosen to fill with domestic tasks... Stocking up on toiletries and buying hardware. You'd think we lived on an island or something.

Christmas in Paris: the 24th

We expected the 24th to be a day of shops closed for the season and shelves bare of breads and pastries. We started the day with a walk down to a bakery we found that has the most marvellous crossants. They were very busy and there were certainly many special orders lined up but we were surprised at the surplus of bread they had for the day. As we walked the city the rest of the afternoon we saw an over abundance of food at bakeries everywhere and hardly anyone out shopping. Shops were staying open late but it was clear that there was going to be a lot of food to waste this year. We mused that the financial climate in France right now may have taken a toll on consumer spending. Floral shops were packed to the gills with arrangements that looked as if they had over-ordered many times what they needed and the christmas tree vendor still had almost full stock of trees left by 3pm on Christmas eve...

We spent the early evening taking a river boat down the Seine on a special champagne tasting cruise. It was truly the most gloriously touristy thing, we began under the Eifel tower and cruised past Notre Dame and the Louvre while our guide walked around with bottles of bubbly answering our questions about champagne production.

After the boat tour we cabbed back to our apartment and began heating all the part of our Christmas dinner. It was a great feast and a very memorable Christmas.

Christmas in Paris: the preparations

We spent our second day, Dec 23rd, out walking the streets of the city trying to gather all the ingredients for our Christmas dinner on the 24th. Not all things made it to the 24th... here are some of the places we went and things we consumed.

First there were Macarons from the Laudree patisserie. We had all the most unusual flavours we could find. I really liked the gingerbread flavour.

Quatrehomme is a magnificent cheese shop. We filled a bag with an impressive spread of cheese for our feast. Not sure what its official name is but we especially enjoyed a truffle cheese which the shop makes just for the season.

Rue Cler, the famous gastro corridor was our stop for lunch but it was also where we found street vendors selling roast potatoes, roast chickens and all the sides. We picked up a quiche here for me and I fought off the cold with a hot chocolate thick enough to pass for fondue.

We couldn't have a proper Parisian Christmas feast without a visit to Lenotre... Our purchases here included a pyramid made of dinner rolls in every variety they make and a Buchedenoel which you can see in all its glory below.

Landing in Paris

Paris, a set on Flickr.

We landed in Paris yesterday at 6am and are now staying at an apartment Joel's parents are renting. This places is like a movie set, frecos painted in the hallways, Victorian furniture, chandeilers over the beds, windows opening out onto views of historic buildings.

We spent our first day out walking and shooting a few pictures on the iphone. I have started an album on flickr which we'll keep adding to as the week progresses.

Le sigh

La Trou Normand

On our first day - date unknown, we don't count anymore - we checked into our hotel and made a b-line for Le Troumilou, the place Joel's parent's highly reccommended. It was great, upon hearing that we'd been refered the host sent us each a Kir on the house and took great care of us.

Joel's French is all coming back, we have been treated very well everywhere save the vespa-nazis but they can't be helped.

The Marais area where we are staying is very old with narrow cobblestone streets full of boutiques from various local designers. The clothes are beautiful though very expensive here. A little further from our hotel are some stores like Zara which are half the price of at home and we've both lucked out with our purchases.

The whole vibe is so different from London, more calm. Even though everyone is drinking all the time no one is drunk and no one down here is under 25. People are polite and as soon as Joel asks the waitress for the correct way to say something we've got a sure ally.

We spent part of yesterday in the Louvre though only just saw a few things. The galleries leading into the Mona Lisa, the Egyptian rooms and the Napolean Chambers a a whole lot of things that are all a blurr now.

We did the Saint Chapelle and Notre Dame today which was really beautiful. I have found a deli with the most amazing tapanade ever and a bakery with baguettes that just melt in your mouth. I think they add extra butter...

Joel's post missed the fact that we had a very romantic stroll for hours after dinner by the light of the river boats travelling up and down the Seinne. We ended up at the Eiffel tower after passing many building of note along the way. The Eyewitness guide borowed from Tanta and David has been invaluable. We use the Rick Steves for the hotel reccommendations but his maps are rubbish. Wish we'd picked up an eyewitness for London, maybe we'll get one for Nice.

OK, my post is long enough. We are going to La Trou Normand for dinner tonight near our place and will likely walk away the evening.

Paris

Last night, after eating and drinking too much Italian food... We walked along the Sienne river to the Eiffel tower. It was enrobed in green light and sparkled a magical epilepsy inducing sparkle of epic proportions. It must have something to do with the Rugby world cup, because there was a big inflated Rugby ball hanging deep from the crotch of the towers legs, It was Soooo big, yet alone. Missing a brother no doubt. Also, when you see 12-15 rats lounging on the grass in the shadow of the tower, and they don't run away from you, you think they could get away with being Parisian squirrels. Just a thought. That's it for my inappropriate post.

Joel